My refrigerator houses an array of condiments from places near and far, suitable for many cuisines. I tend to buy bottles of random things when snooping about a food market in a neighborhood (or country) I’ve not visited in some time. Mostly these bottles collect dust, the inner goop too obscure for me to make the effort to combine it with its proper mates (though an occasional weekend cooking project will have me rooting through the cupboards).
In principle, I don’t consider chili paste one of these obscure condiments. After all, many cuisines have multiple condiments made of chiles that are critical to their dishes. But until lately, the pastes I’ve picked up along the way remained the wallflower at the prom — I see them there, they look pretty, but I’m afraid to approach them.
And how lucky I am to have finally gotten over my shyness! Harissa, from Tunisia, seems innocent enough, but the fairly smooth brick-red paste hides the intense heat that is to come when stirred into your morning scrambled eggs, as I once did. No need for coffee that day. At least the Indonesian sambal oelek gives some advance warning — the fiery little chile seeds are floating about in the loose, dark red sauce with no shame. Yet the heat is tempered a bit with some sweetness; I like it when making chickpea stew. The most recent experiment is with kochujang, a spicy Korean chile bean paste that looks a bit like tomato paste. I browned some pork, and then added the kochujang to caramelize and thicken the pan sauce (as I would with tomato paste). It was perfect over plain rice: spicy, sweet and a bit jammy.
I’m not saying chile pastes have replaced my holy trinity of Dijon, mayo and ketchup, but I’m way more open to change now, and realizing my lugging all those bottles home from the markets might not have been in vain after all.
Liz Tarpy works for Food Network and Cooking Channel. She considers herself a Food Person due to her devotion to global flavors.
Condiment KING. Let's be equal opportunity here. I couldn't tell you all the jars and bottles of sauces, relishes, pickles, pastes, sambals, chutneys, mustards, dressings, jams and jellies that I have in my refrigerator. There would not be enough room on one comment page. Some are even home made. They range the whole spectrum of tastes from salty, sweet, sour, bitter, hot, umami and mixtures of every type. You know what they say about variety being the spice of life.
I don't know if I have you beat, but I may be close. Mustard challenge–How many containers of mustard to you currently have (fridge and unopened pantry included). P.S. I am NOT a hoarder. I just like condiments.
Hey John, OK I'm up for the challenge. First I will list them and then count. Inglehoffer's Deli and Whole Grain. French's Yellow. Grey Poupon regular and country. Dynasty hot Chinese, One called Monterrey sweet honey mustard. Both Boars Head and Dietz & Watson deli mustards. Coleman's prepared mustard from an Irish Fair over Fathers Day weekend. Lastly, two Italian mostardas that I make myself, one with apricots and cherries, the other is mixed fruit. So only twelve. That's not too many, right?
Alright: 1. Raye's Downeast Schooner (2 bottles); 2. Raye's Top Dog; 3. Raye's Old World; 4. Grey Poupon Mild & Creamy; 5. Mister Mustard Hot; 6. Tobasco Hot Mustard; 7. Bertman Ball Park; 8. Kame Hot; 9. French's Zesty Deli; 10. Sweet N' Hot; 11. Inglehoffer Wasabi.
Aargh! We would have tied but my kids just polished off the French's yellow. Double or nothing on miso?
You would win, I think. I only have one bean paste in the fridge at the moment, Chinese black bean and garlic. I use it to marinate tri tips for the BBQ. I only buy miso paste when I'm going to make soup, but I have been wanting to try it rubbed onto fish or Korean gochujang for bulgogi when I make it next time. What types of miso do you use?
By far the best miso I've ever had is South River Miso ( http://www.southrivermiso.com ). The 3 year barley and garlic red pepper make a terrific marinade.
I'm just glad to see I'm not alone in my condiment obsession (currently taking up 3 shelves and 5 pocket doors in my 2 fridges). Never know when you need chili garlic paste or artichoke pesto.
Glad to be right there with you fellow traveler of the condiment isle. I will look for that miso on my wanderings, thanks for the tip. Do you ever make your own condiments? I make several, like the mostardas, that keep for only a short time. I've made ketchup twice, mayonnaise, aioli, pestos, relishes, chili garlic sauces (both hot and sweet varieties), picked peppers/vegetables, lots of chutneys, salsas and dressings. My wife and friends call me "The Saucier". It's a title I hold dear.
Other than guacamole, pickles, pico de gaillo and mayonnaise, I haven't really tried to make my own condiments. On second thought… If my garden would have turned out better this year it might be a different story.
That's exactly how I got started. Too many tomatoes so I made ketchup. Too many peppers so I pickled them. Ketchup was the hardest. The first time took two whole 12 hour days. The second time it was like I was a pro one 12 hour day and one 4 hour day.
Recipe for a simple sweet hot chili garlic sauce:
(2) Tbsp. dry chili flakes
(2) Tbsp. chopped garlic
(2) Tbsp. neutral oil
(2) Tbsp. sugar
(1/4) C. rice wine vinegar
In a small sauce pan heat the oil and add the garlic and pepper flakes. Heat gently for one minute then add the remaining ingredients and bring to a quick boil. Lower the heat and simmer for two to three minutes more. Turn off heat and let steep until cool.
I use this as a dipping sauce for dumplings or won tons. Sometimes in lettuce wraps with BBQ beef slices and herbs. You can vary the amount of sugar and vinegar to your taste.
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