I recently returned from visiting friends in Hamburg, Germany. It was my first trip to the city on the Elbe. Tall metal cranes unloading container ships score the horizon. Musty cathedrals stand side by side with shiny modern buildings and narrow row houses lean into each other as if to hear a secret. Canal boats channel tourists through a maze of the city’s waterways. There are sidewalk cafes and leafy parks and bicycles everywhere. The landscape was not like the pastoral Black Forest tableau I’d envisioned. But travel is all about new experiences, especially the food, and I arrived in Hamburg very hungry.